Download the Size Chart PDF, print at 100% (Actual Size), then cut out and test against your hand to choose the right size.
19,00 €
Split-finger archery tab in calfskin over a suede backing. Sizes S to L, longer face on M and L. Stiff at first, conforms after 100 to 200 shots.
| Grip | Split-finger (Mediterranean) |
|---|---|
| Face leather | Calfskin |
| Backing | Suede |
| Sizes | S, M and L; longer face on M and L |
| Made | To order, in Hungary |
Split-finger archery tab with a calfskin face over a soft suede backing. Sizes S, M and L, with a longer face on M and L. See the size chart PDF. Choose a longer face for long fingers, or for a shallow hook with the string nearer the fingertips. Slightly stiff at first, it conforms to the hand after 100 to 200 shots.
For the Mediterranean hook: one finger above the nock, two below. A spacer is optional. It holds the fingers apart at a fixed gap, so finger position and release stay the same from shot to shot. You do not need one, but the archers at the top all use one. New to archery? Start here: it costs less, and while your size and hook are still settling, the risk is smaller. You can move to shell cordovan later.
Calfskin is the entry level of my four leathers, and a good tab on its own. The leather costs less; the work that goes into it does not.
Size, and the longer face if your fingers need it; the hand you shoot with; the bow weight on your fingers; leather and thread colours. A thinner or thicker feel, where the leather allows. The stiffener, leather or stainless steel, and a spacer, ABS or wood, if you want one.
No regular care. Wipe it clean; if it gets wet, let it dry, then rub in a little lanolin baby cream. More oil does not make it shoot better.
Made after you order it, in my workshop in Hungary, so I give no fixed date; if yours runs long, you hear it from me. A finger sling comes with it, so the bow stays in your hand without gripping, plus a spare strap for the tab.
Made to order: your size, your leather, your colours.
Print the size chart at 100 per cent, with "fit to page" off. Measure your fingers on the hand drawing on page 7, then hold the matching cut-out template against your hand. My sizing differs from other makers, so a size from another brand does not carry over. Between two sizes, choose the larger one: a little extra width is not much of a problem, and the length can always be trimmed. A tab in a completely custom shape, made to your own hand, is also possible: it needs a cutting die of its own at an extra charge, and I keep that die to cut your next tab with it.
Usually the normal face is enough. The longer one suits long fingers, or a shallow hook with the string nearer the fingertips. If unsure, choose the longer one: it can be trimmed.
Trim the tip yourself, a little at a time, once the tab is broken in, not on the first day.
A thinner tab gives more feedback, a thicker one behaves more consistently and gives a faster release. Which matters more is down to your own preference. The Ogawa shell cordovan face is the thinnest, 1.0 to 1.4 mm, and stiff. Tuscany shell cordovan is 1.5 to 1.8 mm, stiffer at first. Horween shell cordovan is 1.3 to 2.2 mm, slightly softer, usually the thicker one.
Usually it is where the string sits, not the thickness. The string belongs in the first joint crease, not on the fingertips. For a right-handed archer it lies just left of the crease on the index finger, just right of it on the middle finger, and across it on the ring finger. On the fingertips it presses on the finger nerves and can cause pain, numbness, even bruising. Thicker leather helps a little; a deep hook is the fix.
No, just shoot it. No oils, no soaking. The calfskin tab is slightly stiff at first and takes your hand's shape after 100 to 200 shots.
Wipe it with a clean cloth. If it gets wet in the rain, let it dry, then rub in a little lanolin baby cream or hand cream. More oil does not make it shoot better.
Yes, on request. I stamp them next to the VLBB mark with a simple letter punch, like a maker's mark.
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